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The workshop expert

Johan Nel

Jewellery designer & goldsmith · trained in gemmology · Mayuri Paris

“A piece of jewellery is judged on the inside, where no one looks. The quality of a setting shows on the back; the quality of a stone, under the loupe.”

Portrait de Johan Nel, designer joaillier et orfèvre de Mayuri Paris
Background

I learned the craft with my hands, as a goldsmithing apprentice, where you understand a piece of jewellery by making it. I also trained in gemmology: knowing how to read a stone as well as how to set it. Discovering CAD, and Rhino3D in particular, changed everything: moving from traditional techniques to digital design opened up an immense field of possibilities.

Driven by curiosity, I trained in 3D modelling, poly-modelling in 3DS Max and Vray rendering, until I was designing jewellery made for 3D printing and casting. Today, with more than nine years in the trade, I bring this blend of traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge tools to every piece.

Key facts
Goldsmithing
Traditional apprenticeship
Gemmology
Training
Jewellery CAD
Rhino3D · 3DS Max · Vray

More than nine years in the trade, from the workbench to 3D design.

Topics
  • Craftsmanship & making
  • Gemmology
  • Stone quality
  • 3D design / CAD
  • Metals & setting
  • Care (the workshop view)

Articles by Johan

37 articles
Portrait of a woman with a natural complexion wearing discreet vermeil jewellery
Metals · 4 min

What is vermeil?

Discover all the characteristics of vermeil jewelry, the difference with gold plated and solid gold, and what makes v...

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Kiran ring in white gold set with emerald and tsavorite gradient, close-up on green stones
Gemology · 4 min

How to tell if an emerald is real

Identify a real emerald with 8 simple tests: inclusions, UV, density, treatments. Avoid the pitfalls.

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Visual comparison between an untreated emerald and an emerald treated with cedarwood oil
Gemology · 4 min

Emerald treated with oil

Learn about emerald oiling, a common treatment that enhances clarity. Discover its impact on value, care tips, and ex...

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Brilliant cut black diamond resting on light veined marble, high contrast
Gemology · 18 min

Black Diamond Guide: everything you need to know before buying a black diamond jewel

The complete guide to black diamonds: types, origins, pricing, care, and symbolism.

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The three types of black diamonds: naturally included, carbonado, and treated, a gemological comparison
Gemology · 10 min

Natural vs. treated black diamond: how to tell the difference?

How to tell a natural black diamond from a treated one: gemological comparison, carbonado, and GIA/IGI certifications.

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Cushion-cut ruby engagement ring with a diamond halo, set in 18K yellow gold
Gemology · 18 min

Ruby Guide: everything you need to know before buying a ruby jewel

The complete guide to ruby: origins, quality, treatments, pricing and tips for choosing the right one.

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Intense red ruby and cushion-cut pink sapphire in fine jewellery, a comparison of faceted precious stones
Gemology · 12 min

Ruby or pink sapphire: what is the difference?

Ruby or pink sapphire? Two corundums, one color boundary. How to tell them apart and choose wisely.

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Rough rubies from different origins, in a range of red hues
Gemology · 13 min

Where do rubies come from? Burma, Mozambique, Sri Lanka: a guide to ruby origins

Burma vs Mozambique rubies: origins, colour differences, saturation levels and their impact on value.

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Loose coloured sapphires: pink, yellow, orange, violet and blue, in oval, pear, cushion and brilliant cuts for fine jewellery
Gemology · 18 min

Colour Sapphires: Pink, Yellow, Orange, Violet and White, the Complete Guide

The color sapphire guide: blue, pink, yellow, violet, green. Shades, rarity and buying advice.

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Oval-cut padparadscha sapphire, a rare pink-orange gemstone with brilliant multifaceted reflections
Gemology · 11 min

What is padparadscha? The rarest sapphire in the world

Padparadscha: a rare sapphire with unclassifiable pink-orange hues. Origin, rarity, and singular character.

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Yellow gold and emerald ring worn on the ring finger, a symbol of commitment and elegance
Gemology · 18 min

Emerald Guide: everything you need to know before buying an emerald jewel

The complete guide to emeralds: origins, quality, treatments, pricing and expert advice to help you choose.

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Oval-cut emerald and tsavorite side by side, a comparison of two green gemstones in fine jewellery
Gemology · 12 min

Emerald vs Tsavorite: which green stone should you choose?

Emerald or tsavorite? A gemological comparison covering color, hardness, price and expert guidance to help you choose.

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Blue sapphire and diamond ring in 18K yellow gold, worn, illustrating the authenticity and trust of Mayuri
Gemology · 9 min

How to Identify a Real Sapphire: Tests and Tips

Simple at-home tests and their limits. The price gap between natural and synthetic Sapphires is significant: an authe...

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Loose blue sapphires: a rough crystal and faceted stones on cream linen
Gemology · 10 min

Natural vs. Heated Sapphire: What Is the Real Difference?

Heated or unheated: understanding sapphire treatments, their impact on value, and how to choose based on your budget ...

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Solid 18K yellow gold wedding ring on dark brown leather, warm light highlighting the gold's brilliance
Metals · 15 min

Gold plating vs vermeil vs solid gold: which should you choose

Gold is everywhere in jewellery. But not all gold is created equal. Between gold-plated pieces starting at $35, verme...

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Natural raw emerald crystal examined under a gemologist's loupe to study its geological formation
Gemology · 8 min

How Does an Emerald Form? Geology and Rarity

The formation of an Emerald requires an unlikely geological convergence of beryl, chromium, and metamorphism; a proce...

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Natural emerald cut in an octagonal shape, showcasing a rich, saturated green hue and visible garden inclusions, illustrating the essential quality criteria
Gemology · 9 min

How to Choose an Emerald: Essential Criteria

Saturated color, garden inclusions, Colombian origin: discover the 5 technical criteria for selecting a truly rare-qu...

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Raw natural emerald crystal on matrix, showcasing its saturated green colour and characteristic inclusions
Gemology · 16 min

Price of an Emerald: How Much Does This Gemstone Cost?

The price of an Emerald ranges from $120 to over $60,000 per carat, depending on four valuation criteria recognized b...

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Translucent octahedral rough diamond crystal resting on dark kimberlite rock
Gemology · 12 min

How a Diamond Forms: from the Earth to the Jewellery Case

At a gemstone market in India, a gemmologist lifts a rough diamond to the light. The octahedral crystal,...

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Unset oval-cut emeralds, green precious stones from Colombia and Zambia for fine jewellery
Gemology · 12 min

Where do emeralds come from? Colombia, Zambia, Brazil

Colombian vs Zambian emeralds: origins, colour differences, clarity, and their impact on value.

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Fine solitaire ring in 18K yellow gold, emerald-cut diamond set in four prongs, natural vs synthetic diamond
Gemology · 12 min

Natural diamond vs lab-grown diamond: the complete guide

Natural or lab-grown diamond? Explore differences, certifications, and value to make the right choice.

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Brilliant cut diamond illustrating the 4Cs: brilliance, colour, clarity and carat weight
Gemology · 13 min

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Understanding Quality to Choose with Confidence

The 4 Cs of diamonds explained: carat, color, clarity, cut. Your guide to understanding and choosing well.

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Rough diamond embedded in kimberlite, the volcanic rock from which diamonds originate
Gemology · 13 min

Where do diamonds come from? A guide to origins and mines

Diamond origins: how they form, the world's greatest mines, and why provenance shapes value.

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Authentic brilliant diamond showing its facets and light dispersion in macro
Gemology · 19 min

How to recognise a real diamond: 7 simple tests

At a gem market in India, a vendor hands me a stone of striking clarity and intense brilliance. "Diamond...

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Macro of a brilliant-cut diamond showing its 57 facets and the dispersion of light
Gemology · 5 min

The Difference Between Diamond and Brilliant Cut

A diamond is not a brilliant. Yet a brilliant is always a diamond. This confusion in terminology runs through...

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Vadha wedding ring in 18K white gold set with seven brilliant-cut diamonds by Mayuri
Gemology · 14 min

Stones that resemble diamonds: moissanite and zircon

At a gem market in Jaipur, a vendor hands us a ring set with a dazzling colorless stone. "...

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Brilliant cut diamond with a 10x gemologist's loupe and GIA certificate on a white surface
Gemology · 14 min

Diamond Certification: GIA, HRD & IGI

A diamond certificate is a passport. Not a guarantee of value, nor a proof of ethical origin...

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Emerald cut diamond solitaire ring in 18K yellow gold worn on the finger
Gemology · 12 min

Diamond shapes and cuts: oval, brilliant, and princess

Choosing the shape of a diamond means defining the character of an engagement ring for decades to come. The...

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18K white gold diamond solitaire ring worn elegantly on a woman's hand
Metals · 15 min

Which metal to pair with diamonds

Diamond is the hardest stone on the Mohs scale, with a rating of 10. This exceptional hardness...

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Wedding ring in 18K yellow gold set with alternating black and white diamonds, a contemporary mineral contrast by Mayuri
Gemology · 11 min

Black Diamond vs White Diamond: the comparison

The Black Diamond and the white diamond belong to the same mineral family, sharing the same hardness...

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18K yellow gold ruby rings and Nadi necklace worn by Mayuri, highlighted with white flowers
Gemology · 15 min

What Colour Is a Ruby? From Soft Pink to Pigeon's Blood

Ruby unfolds a palette ranging from pigeon's blood red to delicate pink: discover the gemological criteria that defin...

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Natural ruby held in gemological tweezers, revealing visible rutile inclusions within
Gemology · 11 min

Natural or Synthetic Ruby: the Tell-Tale Signs You Need to Know

Mined or laboratory-grown? Learn to distinguish a synthetic ruby from a natural ruby through visual tests, certificat...

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Devi, Sakshi and Tina ruby and diamond rings in 18K gold by Mayuri, elegantly worn
Gemology · 11 min

How Much Does a Ruby Cost? The Real Price, from Carat to Jewel

Ruby price per carat based on color, clarity, origin and treatment. Pigeon blood vs. heated value guide, plus a break...

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Yatra hoops in 18K yellow gold set with baguette emeralds in varying shades of green, by Mayuri
Gemology · 14 min

Emerald Colour: Hues and Quality

Colombian, Zambian, or Brazilian: explore the nuances of Emerald shades, quality criteria, and the influence of origi...

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Tina ring in 18K yellow gold set with three rubies, by Mayuri
Gemology · 14 min

How to Identify a Genuine Ruby: A Complete Guide

How can you be certain a ruby is genuine? This guide walks you through 7 identification tests: hardness, inclusions, ...

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Natural rough green emerald examined under a magnifying glass, fine jewellery identification and expertise
Gemology · 12 min

How to Identify a Raw Emerald: Complete Geological Guide

Hexagonal structure, hardness, garden of inclusions: our gemologist criteria for identifying a raw Emerald and avoidi...

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Deep blue cushion-cut sapphire ring surrounded by diamonds, worn on the ring finger
Gemology · 11 min

Where do sapphires come from? Kashmir, Ceylon, Madagascar

Kashmir, Ceylon, Madagascar: discover the origins of Sapphires, their colours and prices, and how to verify the prove...

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